Indy Monthly

PRESS | Indy Monthly

Longtime Indianapolis chef Brad Gates was picked to oversee Hedge Row’s kitchen, and his ingredients pull from area producers like Rossville’s Silverthorn Farm, Morristown’s Viking Lamb, and Indy’s own Tinker Coffee, Amelia’s bakery, and Mad Farmers Collective. That means the local terroir might be represented in a plate of roasted Gunthorp Farms chicken, charred in spots but juicy to the bone and glistening with mustard-butter glaze, a bed of curried couscous and dribbles of sumac yogurt sauce adding some Middle Eastern warmth. Light, slightly sweet Viking Lamb meatballs are spicy little flavor bombs in Moroccan tomato sauce, and chunky brussels sprouts and turnips caramelize alongside hunks of Smoking Goose ham hock in Hedge Row’s blazing wood oven.